The main cost factors
Area and layout
Patios are priced largely on square metres. A straightforward rectangle is quicker to lay than a curved or multi-level design with lots of cutting. Have a rough measurement ready when you ask for quotes so you're comparing like with like.
Material
This is one of the biggest variables. Plain concrete slabs are the most affordable; riven and stone-effect concrete sit in the middle; Indian sandstone and porcelain cost more to buy and take longer to lay properly. Prices also vary widely between ranges of the same material.
Groundwork and preparation
This is the part you don't see once it's finished, and it decides how long the patio lasts:
- removing an old patio, concrete or turf, and disposing of it,
- excavating to the right depth, often deeper on clay,
- the sub-base and the mortar bed,
- skip hire or waste removal.
When one quote is much lower than the others, this is often where the difference is.
Slopes and drainage
A sloping garden may need steps, retaining walls or a raised section. Where rainwater has nowhere to go, a channel drain or soakaway adds to the cost but protects the house.
Access
If materials have to come through the house or along a narrow passage, the job takes longer. Terraced houses without a back lane are the classic example.
Extras
Steps, walls, paths, raised beds, lighting and sealing all add to the total. Including them in one quote is usually better value than adding them later.
Questions to ask every installer
Put the same questions to each one and ask for the answers in writing:
- How deep will you excavate, and what will the sub-base be?
- Will each slab be laid on a full mortar bed? For porcelain and sandstone, will every slab be primed?
- What fall will the patio have, and where will the water drain?
- How far below the damp-proof course will it finish?
- What's included? Waste removal, jointing, cleaning down, making good the edges.
The answers usually explain any big gap between quotes.
Get a free quote
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