Porcelain patios in Darlington

The case for porcelain

Porcelain paving is clay fired at very high temperatures until it's dense and barely absorbs any water. In practical terms, that means:

• Stains stay on top. Spilled drinks, grease from the barbecue and leaf marks wash off.
• Less green. Algae and moss struggle to get going, which helps in a damp or shady garden.
• No sealing, ever.
• Clean lines. Slabs are made to tight sizes, so joints stay narrow and straight. You can get finishes that look like sandstone, slate, concrete or even timber.
• Colour-fast. It doesn't fade in sunlight.

The downsides are cost, which is usually above concrete, and the fact that it's tough to cut and needs extra steps to bond properly.

Laying porcelain the right way

Because porcelain is so dense, ordinary mortar won't hold it on its own. Here's what a good fitter does:

1. Sub-base of compacted crushed stone, deep enough for the ground. Darlington's clay often calls for a bit more depth.
2. Primer brushed onto the back of every single slab just before it goes down.
3. Full mortar bed under the whole slab, with no voids, because hollow spots are what lead to cracks.
4. Fall and level: a slight slope away from the house, finishing comfortably below the damp-proof course.
5. Diamond-blade cuts and a jointing compound designed for porcelain.

A simple test when you get quotes: ask whether they prime every slab and whether it's a full bed. You want "yes" to both without any hesitation.

Porcelain in Darlington gardens

It suits the newer homes at West Park and Middleton St George, particularly in large slabs outside patio or bi-fold doors. It's also a sensible choice for shaded corners of larger gardens in the West End and Blackwell, under mature trees, where natural stone would go green quickly.

For a softer, more traditional look on an older house, Indian sandstone may be the better fit. If you're watching the budget, consider concrete slabs. You can also carry the porcelain on into paths and steps.

Questions people ask